The Deer & Doe Sirocco Jumpsuit: A Pattern Review
Fabrication's Katy is Katy de Sousa, the Head Geek of http://www.minigeeks.etsy.ca Katy has a well-known love for quirky bright knits, and an unerring ability to combine patterns to brilliant effect. In this blog post, she reviews the Deer & Doe Sirocco jumpsuit (that might have been designed just for her, it captures her style and personality so well.)
From the Deer & Doe website:
“The Sirocco is a wrap-over jersey jumpsuit with short fitted sleeves and pleated pants. Version A has tapered legs, and version B is a playsuit with shorts.”
Here’s Katy’s review:
Those who know me know how much I love Deer & Doe patterns. The instructions are always precise and clear (no unnecessary banter), the diagrams are easy to follow, and – bonus! – they usually fit me without many adjustments, which is a blessing for this short-waisted gal.
When the Sirocco jumpsuit dropped last spring, I knew I needed the pattern right away. Jumpsuits were hugely on trend, and this one seemed to have everything that I wanted. It’s made for knits, has no closures, and, of course, pockets.
My wearable muslin was made from grey cotton Ponte. My measurements were size 40 for bust, and 42 for waist and hips. After looking at the finished garment measurements, I made a straight size 40, as I felt the 42 would have too much ease, and knowing Deer & Doe patterns, I could probably get away without grading. As it turned out, I’m 32F, but I didn’t need to do an FBA. And – as I said – short-waisted but didn’t need to shorten or lengthen the torso.
The jumpsuit took me about 1.5 hours to make, and I was happy that I did not need to make any adjustments.
I opted to skip adding clear elastic, as I used a serger for all my seams, and find the elastic is only really necessary if you’re sewing on a sewing machine and don’t want wavy seams. I will say, DO NOT skip under-stitching your pockets. This helps keep your seam allowance in place against the pocket facings, and keeps your pockets lying nice and flat against your pants.
Since then, I’ve made five (!) more. I have five full pant versions, and one short version. I’ve used a mix of Cotton Lycra jersey, Cotton Ponte, Cotton Lycra French terry, and one made from velvet and a polyester sparkle knit that Fabrications had in stock over Christmas.
You do need to make sure to choose a knit with some structure for the bottom half. Anything too drapey (like bamboo jersey) will not give you definition through the front pleats and pockets. I do like mixing fabrics, and the Sirocco was perfect for my Floral Star Wars version, which is made with black Ponte from Fabrications for the pants, and Cotton Lycra Jersey from my stash on the top.
I think what I love most about this pattern is the versatility. The Sirocco really is like wearing secret pyjamas!
I’ve worn one dressed up with heels for a night out, with flats at work, and with low boots and a sweater over top for running errands. I’m looking forward to making another short version this summer to (hopefully) wear on vacation with my kids.